The Bollywood haircut

Nairobi is a harder city to learn than any other I've lived in. This might have something to do with the fact that it's in Africa, not Massachusetts, but more than that it's because in the three months since I moved here, I've been out of the country nearly half the time -- about 40 days. So I still don't know some of the basic things you need to feel comfortable in a place -- like where to get your hair cut.

 

I messaged three of the guys I know in town, but two of them were traveling. I ignored the suggestion of the third, because he's sort of bald. Desperate, I asked Evelyn, who gave me the name of a place that a few of her male friends use. "The only thing," she said, and here she paused -- "is it's kind of Bollywood."

 

What?

 

"You'll see."

 

Sure enough, I walked into "Dharmesh's Barber Shop" last night and was greeted by a giant poster of some Hindi film actor. A filmi soundtrack I vaguely recognize was in the CD player. And the three kids working the place had the feathered, parted-in-the-middle hair and flared pants we all recognize as vintage Bollywood. I hesitated, but it was too late -- they'd seen me. So I took my chances.

 

Not the best haircut I've ever had, but it cost about $4, so I'll live with it. But I can't imagine these guys are getting a lot of walk-in traffic. The other problem with Nairobi is every decent shop, restaurant and bar is in some kind of mall. It's good for convenience and safety, but it's worse for pedestrians and spontaneity than even L.A. To get anything done, you really need to know where you're going, and I'm looking forward to the day -- hopefully soon -- when I do.

 

Beard watch: Incidentally, the "nos" had it -- the facial hair is gone. I look like my boyish self again. Those of you with suggestions about other improvements I could make to my face, it's just nice to know you care.